# How to Fix Kenmore Error CE (Current Error)
The “CE” error code is a critical indicator related to the motor and drive system of your Kenmore washer, typically found in direct-drive models. While it technically means “Current Error,” it almost always points to a specific physical failure within the motor assembly.
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## 1. Explanation: What This Code Means
The **CE (Current Error)** code signifies that the main control board (PCB) is failing to receive the proper electrical feedback from the motor during operation.
In Kenmore models, the control board monitors the current flowing through the motor’s coils. If the current is unstable, shorted, or the machine senses an infinite load, it trips the CE code and shuts down.
**The Likely Culprit:** In 9 out of 10 cases, the CE error is caused by a faulty **Stator Assembly**. The Stator is the stationary part of the motor containing the copper wiring coils, which can often fail due to water damage, overheating, or corrosion.
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## 2. Step-by-Step Fix: Diagnosing the Stator Assembly
Since the CE error is highly indicative of a mechanical motor failure, your diagnosis should focus on inspecting the Stator and its connections.
### Step 1: Safety and Access
1. **Disconnect Power:** Unplug the washing machine completely from the wall outlet.
2. **Gain Access:** Pull the machine away from the wall and use a screwdriver or nut driver to remove the screws holding the **rear access panel** in place. Set the panel aside.
3. **Locate the Motor:** The direct-drive motor is located directly in the center of the tub’s rear base. You will see the circular Rotor (the outer moving part) and the stationary Stator attached to the tub frame.
### Step 2: Visual Inspection for Failure
The Stator Assembly is the donut-shaped component with large, coiled copper wiring. Inspect the Stator thoroughly for the following signs of damage:
* **Water Intrusion:** Look for white, chalky residue, or rust near the center of the Stator coils.
* **Burn Marks:** Check for any sections of the coiled wiring that appear black, melted, or burnt. This indicates a short circuit.
* **Corrosion:** Heavy corrosion on the terminals where the wire harness plugs in can cause poor conductivity, mimicking a fault.
* **Loose Connections:** Ensure the main wiring harness plug (usually a large, multi-pin connector) is firmly secured to the Stator terminals.
> **Crucial Tip:** If you see clear evidence of water damage or burning on the Stator coils, replacement is required.
### Step 3: Check Motor Resistance (Advanced Users)
If the Stator looks visually perfect, you can use a multimeter to confirm if the internal coils are shorted or open.
1. **Set Multimeter:** Set your multimeter to the resistance setting (Ohms, usually the Ω symbol).
2. **Disconnect Harness:** Unplug the main wiring harness connector from the Stator Assembly.
3. **Test Coils:** Place the multimeter probes across the three coil terminals (pins) on the Stator itself. You will test the resistance between three pairs:
* Pin 1 to Pin 2
* Pin 2 to Pin 3
* Pin 1 to Pin 3
4. **Analyze Readings:** A healthy Stator should show **low, consistent resistance** across all three pairs (typically between **5 and 15 Ohms**, depending on the model).
* **Failure Confirmation:** If one of the three readings shows **”OL” (Open Loop)** or infinite resistance, the internal coils have broken, and the Stator Assembly must be replaced.
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## 3. Call to Action
If your visual inspection or resistance test confirms a faulty motor component, you need a replacement.
Check the price for a replacement Stator Assembly here: https://www.amazon.com/s?k=Kenmore+Stator Assembly&tag=trivian-20