## How to Fix LG Error CE (Current Error)
If your LG washing machine displays the “CE” error code, it means the machine has detected an abnormal or excessive electrical current draw, usually related to the main drive motor. This guide will walk you through diagnosing the most common culprit: the **Stator Assembly**.
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### What Does the CE Code Mean in Plain English?
The **CE** code stands for **Current Error**.
In LG direct-drive washing machines, the motor is controlled by the PCB (main control board). When the PCB tries to run the motor, it monitors the electrical current. If the current spikes too high, or if the control board detects an imbalance in the current between the motor’s coils, it halts operation immediately and throws the CE error.
While poor wiring or a faulty control board *can* cause this error, the vast majority of CE codes are caused by a **failing Stator Assembly** (the stationary windings of the direct-drive motor).
### Step-by-Step Fix: How to Diagnose the Stator Assembly
**Safety Warning:** Always unplug the washing machine from the wall outlet before attempting any inspection or repair. Failure to do so can result in severe electrical shock.
#### Phase 1: Accessing the Motor
1. **Unplug the Machine:** Disconnect all power.
2. **Remove the Back Panel:** Use a screwdriver or nut driver to remove the screws holding the large rear access panel of the washer. Set the panel aside.
3. **Locate the Rotor and Stator:** You will see the motor components directly attached to the drum.
* The **Rotor** is the large, round, bolted piece on the outside (this spins).
* The **Stator** is the fixed, flat, often green or copper-colored component behind the rotor.
4. **Remove the Rotor:** Locate the large center bolt holding the rotor in place (usually a 17mm socket). Remove this bolt. The rotor should then slide straight off the splines.
5. **Examine the Stator:** The Stator Assembly is now exposed. It will have a large white plastic connector plugged into it.
#### Phase 2: Visual and Electrical Inspection
##### 1. Visual Inspection
Before testing, look closely at the Stator Assembly and its wiring harness:
* **Burn Marks:** Check for signs of overheating, such as melted insulation, scorched wires, or a noticeable burnt smell around the copper windings.
* **Corrosion:** Look for rust or signs of water damage, which can short out the windings.
* **Harness Integrity:** Ensure the wiring connector is firmly attached and that none of the individual wires have been chewed, cut, or crimped.
If you see obvious burn marks, the Stator is definitively faulty and needs replacement.
##### 2. The Ohm Test (The Definitive Test)
To confirm the Stator is the issue, you must test the resistance (Ohms) across its three main phases using a multimeter.
* **Set the Multimeter:** Set your multimeter to the lowest Ohms (Ω) setting (usually 200Ω).
* **Test Location:** Locate the white plastic harness plug that connects to the Stator. Unplug this harness.
* **Identify Pins:** Insert the probes of the multimeter into the terminals inside the plug connected to the Stator. You will be testing three combinations of the three main pins (usually Pins 1, 2, and 3).
| Test Combination | Expected Reading (Ohms) | Diagnosis if Reading is Outside Range |
| :— | :— | :— |
| Pin 1 to Pin 2 | 8–12 Ohms | Stator is faulty or winding is open. |
| Pin 2 to Pin 3 | 8–12 Ohms | Stator is faulty or winding is open. |
| Pin 1 to Pin 3 | 8–12 Ohms | Stator is faulty or winding is open. |
**Critical Check:** All three resistance readings must be **consistent** (within 1 or 2 Ohms of each other). If one pair of pins reads significantly higher or shows **OL** (Open Loop / Open Circuit), the winding is broken and the Stator must be replaced.
##### 3. Grounding Test
This test checks if the Stator is shorting out against the metal frame.
* **Test:** Place one probe on any of the Stator terminals (Pin 1, 2, or 3) and the other probe firmly against the metal chassis of the washing machine (a non-painted surface).
* **Expected Reading:** The multimeter should read **OL** (Open Loop) or infinity.
* **Diagnosis:** If the multimeter registers any resistance or continuity, the Stator is shorted to ground and must be replaced immediately.
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If the Stator fails either the consistency test (Phase 2, Step 2) or the grounding test (Phase 2, Step 3), it is the cause of the CE error and requires replacement.
Check the price for a replacement Stator Assembly here: https://www.amazon.com/s?k=LG+Stator Assembly&tag=trivian-20