# How to Fix LG Error tE (Heating Error)
The LG washing machine error code “tE” indicates a fundamental problem with the unit’s ability to monitor or regulate water temperature. This is a common issue that prevents the machine from running heating cycles and often stops mid-cycle.
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## 1. Explanation: What does the “tE” code mean?
The “tE” code stands for **Temperature Error** or **Thermistor Error**.
The thermistor is the temperature sensor inside your washing machine. It is a critical component that relays the water temperature back to the main control board (PCB).
When the PCB receives a “tE” code, it means one of three things:
1. **Open Circuit:** The thermistor is completely disconnected, or the sensor has failed and is reporting infinite resistance.
2. **Shorted Circuit:** The thermistor is sending a resistance reading that is outside the acceptable range for the current water temperature.
3. **Faulty Heating Element:** Although less common, a shorted or failed heating element can sometimes trigger a tE error if it causes the thermistor to report impossibly high or low temperatures.
**The most likely culprit is a faulty or failed Thermistor.**
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## 2. Step-by-Step Fix: How to Diagnose the Thermistor
The tE error requires opening the washing machine cabinet to physically test the sensor.
### Step 1: Safety First & Access
1. **Unplug the Washer:** Immediately disconnect the washing machine from the power outlet and turn off the water supply.
2. **Gain Access:** Depending on your model (front-load vs. top-load), you will need to access the rear of the drum.
* *Front-Load:* You typically remove the rear access panel or the lower kick plate.
* *Location:* The thermistor is generally located near the water inlet and is often directly attached to, or near, the heating element at the bottom of the tub.
### Step 2: Inspect Connections
Once you locate the thermistor (it’s a small, cylindrical probe with two wires attached):
1. **Check Harness:** Visually inspect the wire harness connected to the thermistor. Ensure the wires are securely seated and not chewed, frayed, or melted.
2. **Corrosion:** Look for signs of corrosion or moisture around the connection points. Clean any visible corrosion.
### Step 3: Test the Thermistor Resistance (The Crucial Step)
If the connections look secure, the next step is to test the thermistor itself using a Multimeter set to **Ohms ($Omega$)**.
1. **Disconnect:** Disconnect the wire harness plug from the thermistor.
2. **Measure:** Place the multimeter probes onto the two terminals of the thermistor. The reading you get is the resistance.
3. **Interpret the Reading:**
* A healthy LG thermistor at room temperature (around 77°F / 25°C) should register a reading between **10,000 to 15,000 Ohms** (10kΩ to 15kΩ). *Note: The exact resistance varies slightly by model, but this range is a strong indicator.*
* **Faulty Reading 1 (Open Circuit):** If the multimeter displays “OL” (Over Limit) or infinity, the thermistor is completely dead. **It must be replaced.**
* **Faulty Reading 2 (Shorted):** If the reading is extremely low (e.g., 100 Ohms or less), the thermistor is shorted. **It must be replaced.**
### Step 4: Test the Heating Element (Optional but Recommended)
Since you have access to the heating element (which is usually right next to the thermistor), it is wise to test it quickly:
1. Set the multimeter to Ohms ($Omega$).
2. Test the two terminals of the heating element.
3. A healthy LG heating element should read between **8 and 30 Ohms**.
4. If the heating element shows “OL” or infinity, it is faulty and should also be replaced. (A failed element can sometimes mimic a temperature error).
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## 3. Solution: Replacement
If your thermistor test failed the resistance check in Step 3, the component is confirmed bad. Since thermistors are sealed units, they cannot be repaired and must be replaced entirely.
**Action Required:** Replace the faulty thermistor.
**Check the price for a replacement Thermistor here: https://www.amazon.com/s?k=LG+Thermistor&tag=trivian-20**