# How to Fix Whirlpool Error F23 (Heater Failure)
The Whirlpool F23 error code is a common signal that your washing machine is having trouble heating the water to the correct temperature during the wash or sanitize cycle. This guide will walk you through the diagnosis and replacement process for the most likely culprit: the heating element.
—
## 1. Explanation: What Does Error F23 Mean?
The F23 error code (sometimes displayed as **F:23** or **E23**) specifically indicates a **Heater Circuit Failure**.
In plain English, this means:
1. **Water Not Heating:** The machine ran a cycle segment requiring hot water, but the control board did not detect the expected temperature increase within a set timeframe.
2. **Element Fault:** The heating element is likely damaged, burned out, or has an open circuit (infinite resistance).
3. **Potential Sensor Issue:** Less commonly, the associated NTC thermistor (temperature sensor) may be faulty, providing incorrect temperature readings.
If you see this code, the machine will often pause the cycle, drain the water, or continue the cycle using only cold water.
—
## 2. Step-by-Step Fix: How to Diagnose and Replace the Heating Element
**Safety Warning:** Always unplug the washing machine from the wall outlet before performing any inspection or repair. Failure to do so could result in serious electrical shock.
### Step 1: Locate the Heating Element
The heating element is typically located at the rear bottom of the wash tub, accessible either by tilting the machine forward or by removing the rear access panel (common in front-loading models).
1. **Unplug the unit.**
2. Shut off the water supply lines.
3. Carefully move the machine forward and remove the rear access panel (usually held in place by several screws).
4. Locate the heating element. It looks like a metallic rod entering the drum and will have two or three electrical wires connected to the terminals.
### Step 2: Visual Inspection
Before testing, look closely at the terminals and the area around the element:
* Are the wires burned, frayed, or melted?
* Are the terminals corroded or heavily oxidized?
* Does the element itself look warped or cracked? (This is hard to see without removal, but check for soot or discoloration on the housing.)
### Step 3: Test the Heating Element with a Multimeter (Ohmmeter)
If the visual inspection doesn’t reveal obvious damage, you need to test the component electrically.
#### **Test A: Resistance (Continuity)**
This test checks if the element is intact and able to heat.
1. Set your multimeter to the Ohms (Ω) setting.
2. Disconnect the wires from the two main terminals of the heating element.
3. Place one probe on each terminal.
| Reading | Status | Action |
| :— | :— | :— |
| **10 to 30 Ohms** | **Good** | The element is likely functioning (move to Test B). |
| **OL / Infinite (∞) Ohms** | **Bad** | The element is “open” or burned out. **Replace the element.** |
| **0 Ohms** | **Bad** | The element is shorted. **Replace the element.** |
#### **Test B: Short to Ground**
This test checks if the element’s internal coil is touching the metal housing of the machine, which is a major fault.
1. Keep your multimeter on the Ohms (Ω) setting.
2. Place one probe on one of the heating element terminals.
3. Place the second probe on a clean, unpainted metal surface of the machine chassis or the metal flange of the element itself.
4. Repeat the test with the other terminal.
| Reading | Status | Action |
| :— | :— | :— |
| **OL / Infinite (∞) Ohms** | **Good** | No short to ground. |
| **Any Ohm reading (even high)** | **Bad** | The element is shorted to ground. **Replace the element.** |
### Step 4: Replacement Procedure
If your tests indicate a faulty heating element, it must be replaced.
1. **Remove the securing bolt:** The heating element is typically held in place by a single central bolt or nut. Loosen this bolt (do not remove it completely).
2. **Release the flange:** Pushing the bolt inward often compresses a rubber grommet inside the drum, releasing the seal.
3. **Pull out the element:** Gently wiggle the old element free and slide it out of the drum. Be prepared for a small amount of residual water to drain out.
4. **Install the new element:** Carefully insert the new heating element into the hole, ensuring the rubber seal is seated correctly.
5. **Tighten the bolt:** Tighten the central bolt until you feel the rubber seal compress and hold the element firmly in place. Do not overtighten, as this can crack the seal.
6. **Reconnect the wiring:** Attach the power wires to the new element terminals.
7. Replace the rear access panel and test the machine. Run a short hot cycle to confirm the F23 error is resolved.
—
## 3. Replacement Part
Check the price for a replacement Heating Element here: https://www.amazon.com/s?k=Whirlpool+Heating+Element&tag=trivian-20