# How to Fix Speed Queen Error Er (Drain Error)
## Explanation: What the “Er” Code Means
The Speed Queen **”Er”** error code is an abbreviation for **”Error”**, specifically indicating a **Drain Error**.
This means your washing machine attempted to drain the water from the tub but failed to do so within the specified time limit (usually 6 to 8 minutes). The water level sensor is telling the machine that the water is still present after the drain cycle has finished.
While the cause can sometimes be a simple clog, the most likely culprit for a persistent “Er” error is the **Drain Pump** itself.
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## Step-by-Step Fix: How to Diagnose and Resolve the Drain Error
Follow these steps in order to diagnose and resolve the issue, starting with the simplest and moving toward replacing parts.
### Step 1: Power Cycle and Reset (The Quick Fix)
Before attempting any mechanical fixes, try resetting the machine.
1. **Unplug:** Unplug the Speed Queen washer from the wall outlet.
2. **Wait:** Wait for 5 minutes to ensure all residual power is drained from the control board.
3. **Plug In:** Plug the machine back in and attempt a short Drain & Spin cycle.
* *If the error clears, the issue may have been a temporary communication error.*
* *If the error returns, proceed to Step 2.*
### Step 2: Check for Obstructions and Clogs (The Maintenance Check)
A frequent cause of drain failure is debris (socks, coins, lint, hair) blocking the drain path or the pump impeller.
**⚠️ Safety First:** Always unplug the machine before attempting this step. You will need to drain residual water, so have towels and a shallow pan ready.
1. **Locate the Drain Pump Filter:** On most Speed Queen models, the drain pump is located at the base of the machine, often accessible by removing the lower front panel (kickplate).
2. **Drain the Water:** Most drain pumps have a small drain hose or filter cap. Carefully unscrew the filter cap or open the drain hose to empty the remaining water from the tub into your pan.
3. **Inspect the Filter/Impeller:** Once the water is drained, completely remove the filter cap/housing and thoroughly check the drain pump impeller (the small fan-like part inside the pump).
* **Remove all debris:** Use tweezers or needle-nose pliers to pull out any socks, lint balls, or foreign objects obstructing the pump.
4. **Reassemble:** Securely replace the filter cap and the lower front panel.
5. **Test:** Run a short test cycle.
* *If the error persists, proceed to Step 3.*
### Step 3: Test the Drain Hose
Ensure the external drain hose is not kinked or clogged.
1. **Pull the Washer Out:** Gently slide the machine away from the wall.
2. **Inspect the Hose:** Check the large rubber hose running from the back of the washer to the standpipe or sink. Ensure it is not crushed against the wall or severely bent.
3. **Check the Standpipe:** Ensure the standpipe or sink drain receiving the water is clear and not backing up.
4. **Test:** If you found a kink, straighten it and run the test cycle again.
### Step 4: Confirm Drain Pump Failure (The Likely Culprit)
If the pump is clear of obstructions and the hose is straight, the pump itself is likely faulty and unable to spin or push water effectively. This requires testing the pump’s electrical continuity and operation.
**⚠️ Warning:** This step involves working with electrical components. Only proceed if you are comfortable using a multimeter.
1. **Access the Pump:** Locate the drain pump again (unplug the machine first).
2. **Remove the Electrical Connector:** Disconnect the wire harness plug going to the pump motor.
3. **Test Resistance (Continuity):** Set your multimeter to the Ohms (Ω) setting. Place the probes on the two terminals inside the pump connector.
* **Expected Reading:** A good drain pump usually shows resistance (continuity) of between 8 and 20 ohms.
* **Failure Reading:** If the multimeter reads **OL (Over Limit)** or **Infinite Resistance**, the pump motor coil is open (broken) and the pump must be replaced.
4. **Visual Check (If Resistance is Good):** Even if the resistance is good, the internal mechanical parts might be seized.
* Carefully observe the impeller area (if visible) while testing for movement. A healthy pump should spin powerfully during the drain cycle. If the machine hums or buzzes but the water doesn’t move, the pump is seized.
**If the pump fails the resistance test or is seized despite being clear of debris, it must be replaced.**
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**Check the price for a replacement Drain Pump here: https://www.amazon.com/s?k=Speed Queen+Drain Pump&tag=trivian-20**