# How to Fix Whirlpool Error F31 (Low L2 Voltage)
The F31 error code on a Whirlpool washing machine indicates a serious electrical fault that requires immediate attention. **Do not run the machine until this issue is resolved.**
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## 1. Explanation: What This Code Means in Plain English
**Whirlpool Error Code F31 signals “Low L2 Voltage.”**
Your washing machine operates using 120V of electricity, which is supplied by two 120V legs (L1 and L2) coming from your home’s breaker panel.
* When the machine detects the **F31 error**, it means the voltage on the L2 leg has dropped significantly (often below 90-95V), indicating a potential power delivery problem.
* **The Problem:** This often doesn’t mean the washing machine itself is faulty. Instead, the L2 line providing power to the appliance (or the circuit it shares) is compromised.
* **The Usual Culprit:** In many homes, the washing machine and the electric dryer share a neutral wire connection or are wired near each other. A common failure point that disrupts the L2 voltage specifically is the **Dryer Terminal Block** (where the dryer power cord connects to the appliance). A loose or burned connection on the neutral wire at this block can cause voltage irregularities that affect nearby circuits, including the washing machine’s.
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## 2. Step-by-Step Fix: How to Diagnose the F31 Error
**Safety Warning:** You will be dealing with high-voltage electricity. Before performing any diagnostics, **ALWAYS turn off the power to the laundry room circuit(s) at the main breaker panel.** If you are uncomfortable working with electricity, contact a qualified appliance technician or electrician.
### Step 1: Check the Breakers
1. **Locate the Breakers:** Go to your home’s main electrical panel.
2. **Verify Status:** Ensure the breaker(s) supplying the laundry area are fully engaged (snapped to the “ON” position). Sometimes, a breaker can partially trip, causing low voltage.
3. **Reset:** Turn the appropriate breaker(s) completely OFF, and then firmly back ON.
### Step 2: Test the Outlet Voltage (Requires a Multimeter)
*If you do not have a multimeter, skip to Step 3.*
1. **Safety:** Ensure the power is ON for this test.
2. **Test Washing Machine Outlet (120V):**
* Set your multimeter to measure AC Volts (VAC).
* Measure between the small slot (Hot/L1) and the large slot (Neutral). You should read approximately **110V – 125V**.
3. **Test Dryer Outlet (240V):**
* If your dryer uses a four-prong outlet (most common now): Measure between L1 (one hot leg) and L2 (the other hot leg). You should read approximately **220V – 250V**.
* If the washer runs normally when the dryer is unplugged, proceed immediately to Step 3.
### Step 3: Inspect the Dryer Terminal Block (Most Likely Fix)
This is the most frequent cause of F31. The neutral wire (often white or bare copper) connecting to the dryer terminal block is commonly burned or loose, causing a voltage drop on the L2 leg.
1. **Kill the Power:** **Turn off the main breaker** for the dryer and washer.
2. **Access the Block:** Unplug the dryer and pull it away from the wall. You will need to remove the access panel, usually located where the power cord enters the back of the dryer.
3. **Inspect Connections:** Visually inspect the connections where the power cord wires attach to the terminal block.
* **Look for:** Scorching, melted plastic, or loose wires—especially the wire connected to the center post (the Neutral connection).
4. **Tighten/Repair:**
* If the wires are simply loose, tighten the screws firmly.
* If the wire, terminal, or surrounding plastic is burned, **the entire terminal block must be replaced.** A failed block can lead to fire risk.
### Step 4: Check Other Appliances and Shared Neutral Connections
If the F31 error persists after checking the dryer block, there may be a loose neutral connection upstream, affecting the entire circuit.
* **Check the Junction Box:** If the washer and dryer are on the same circuit, check the junction box where the wires connect to the wall.
* **Call an Electrician:** If you cannot find the loose connection at the dryer or wall outlets, the problem is likely located inside your electrical panel or a major junction box in your home, requiring a professional electrician to diagnose and repair.
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## Call to Action
If your inspection confirmed damage to the dryer’s power connection point, a replacement terminal block is necessary.
Check the price for a replacement Dryer Terminal Block here: https://www.amazon.com/s?k=Whirlpool+Dryer+Terminal+Block&tag=trivian-20
Need a Replacement Part?
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