# How to Fix Whirlpool Washing Machine Error F23 (Outlet Thermistor Shorted)
The F23 error code is a common issue on many Whirlpool washing machine models (particularly front-loaders and combination units). This guide will help you understand the error and walk through the diagnostic and repair steps necessary to clear the code.
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## What Does Whirlpool Error F23 Mean?
In plain English, the F23 error code indicates a fault with the machine’s primary temperature sensing mechanism.
| Technical Meaning | Outlet Thermistor Shorted |
| :— | :— |
| **Location** | Sensor monitoring the temperature of the water exiting the tub (near the drain pump or sump area). |
| **The Problem** | The thermistor (temperature sensor) is registering zero or near-zero resistance, which the Control Control Unit (CCU) interprets as a “short circuit.” This means the board cannot accurately read the water temperature, causing the machine to stop operating. |
| **Likely Culprit** | The thermistor itself is defective, or the wiring harness leading to it has been damaged (often by rubbing or water intrusion). |
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## Step-by-Step Fix: How to Diagnose and Replace the Thermistor
Before starting any troubleshooting or repair, **always unplug the washing machine** from the power outlet and turn off the water supply lines.
### Step 1: Perform a Hard Reset (Initial Check)
Sometimes, the F23 error is temporary due to a power fluctuation.
1. **Unplug** the washing machine completely.
2. **Wait 5 minutes** to ensure the control board fully discharges.
3. **Plug the machine back in** and attempt to start a short cycle. If the code reappears immediately, proceed to the physical diagnosis.
### Step 2: Access the Thermistor
The Outlet Thermistor is typically located on the tub or sump assembly, often close to the drain pump. The access method depends on your model:
1. **Locate the Thermistor:** Consult your owner’s manual or appliance schematic. For most Whirlpool front-loaders, you will need to remove the **rear panel** of the machine or the **front service panel** (kick plate).
2. **Identify the Thermistor:** It is a small component (usually cylindrical or bullet-shaped) inserted into the plastic or metal housing, connected by a dedicated wiring harness (typically two thin wires).
3. **Disconnect:** Gently unplug the wiring harness connector from the thermistor.
### Step 3: Inspect the Wiring and Connection
Before replacing the part, inspect the entire length of the wire harness you just disconnected.
1. **Check for Damage:** Look for visible signs of scorching, corrosion (green or blue buildup), or wires that have been severed or chewed (if mice are a possibility).
2. **Secure Connection:** Ensure the plug connecting to the thermistor is securely seated and the terminals inside the plastic plug are not pushed back or damaged.
### Step 4: Test the Thermistor Resistance (Recommended)
If the wiring looks fine, you must test the component itself using a multimeter set to Ohms ($Omega$).
1. **Set Meter:** Set your multimeter to the Rx1 or $20text{k}Omega$ setting.
2. **Test Resistance:** Place one probe on each terminal of the disconnected thermistor component.
3. **Analyze Reading:**
* **If the meter reads 0 Ohms or very close to 0:** The thermistor is shorted, confirming the F23 error code. The part must be replaced.
* **If the meter reads “OL” (Over Limit/Open Loop):** The sensor is completely open—this usually throws a different error code (like F22), but it still indicates a failure.
* **If the meter reads a specific value (e.g., 8–15 k$Omega$ at room temperature):** The thermistor is likely functioning correctly. If you get a proper reading, the problem is most likely the wiring harness or the CCU (Control Board).
***Note:** The precise resistance value varies by temperature and model, but the key indicator for F23 is a reading near 0 Ohms.*
### Step 5: Replace the Faulty Component
If your multimeter test confirms the sensor is shorted, the replacement process is straightforward.
1. **Remove the Old Thermistor:** Depending on the model, the thermistor may be held in place by a simple clip, a small screw, or a rubber grommet. Carefully remove the old sensor. **Be prepared for a small amount of residual water leakage.**
2. **Install the New Thermistor:** Secure the new component in the exact same manner as the old one.
3. **Reconnect Wiring:** Plug the wiring harness back into the new sensor.
4. **Reassemble and Test:** Reattach any panels you removed, plug the machine back in, turn the water on, and run a diagnostic cycle or short rinse cycle to confirm the F23 error has cleared.
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### Replacement Part
If the diagnostics point to a faulty sensor:
Check the price for a replacement Dryer Thermistor here: https://www.amazon.com/s?k=Whirlpool+Dryer+Thermistor&tag=trivian-20
Need a Replacement Part?
Get the correct part for your Whirlpool Dryer quickly:
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